The 7 Best Hikes Around Geneva
Originally published in The Local Switzerland.
When you walk across the Pont du Mont Blanc you notice that you can’t actually see the eponymous “highest mountain in the Alps”. Instead, what catches your eye are a series of smaller, but no less iconic, mountains. Le Salève, Les Voirons, and Le Môle make up the backdrop of Rive Gauche, and when looking the other way it is impossible to miss the Jura, with Crêt de la Neige and La Dôle being the more eye-catching summits of “Switzerland’s spine”. These foothills hug the Geneva metropolitan area (forming la cuvette genevoise) — and other than trapping pollution, they offer some brilliant hiking for locals and visitors alike. So, without further ado, here is a list of the 7 best hikes around Geneva:
Le Salève
Ahh the Salève, the balcony of Geneva. The main backdrop of this Swiss city is found in… France, like almost every other hike on this list. It feels like a great limestone wave about to crash onto you: the “French side” builds up slowly to the abrupt cliffs, striations, and quarry of the “Genevois side”. Frankenstein’s monster scales this perpendicular face in Mary Shelley’s book:
“I thought of pursuing the devil; but it would have been in vain, for another flash discovered him to me hanging among the rocks of the nearly perpendicular ascent of Mont Salève…Who could arrest a creature capable of scaling the overhanging sides of Mont Salève?”
I’m not suggesting you follow in Frankenstein’s footsteps exactly, but you too can climb the Salève! Here are two recommended routes:
1. Le Pas de l’Échelle
This 4h30m, 4.4 km hike is the go-to for soccer moms and retirees alike, it’s an easier hike — but not to be underestimated. Le Pas de l’Échelle is the historic way up the hill, its carved stone step sections attest to its 14th century roots. Park at the Gare de Départ of the Téléphérique (15 minute drive from the centre, 40 minutes with a walk if you take the 8 bus) and head towards Chemin du Bois Meriguet. After an hour or so you’ll pass through the lovely town of Monnetier nestled between the Petit and Grand Salève — before reaching the Panorama, where you might catch a few parapenteurs taking off.
2. Chemin de la Grande Gorge
This is a difficult hike — both longer and steeper than Le Pas de l’Échelle. As the name suggests, it follows the “big gorge” that cuts through this part of the Salève. It winds its way through the couloir before cutting left towards the Panorama. It is a more adventurous, secluded climb, and was apparently used by smugglers back in the day. Start from the same spots as Le Pas de l’Échelle.
P.S. You can go up one way and down the other to mix things up!
3. Le Signal des Voirons
Le Massif des Voirons (1,480 m) reaches higher than the more dramatic Salève (1,379 m) despite often being overshadowed by it. This is a gross injustice, as getting to the top earns you the best 360° view (voir rond) on this list, you really feel like you are in the middle of another plane. Les Dents du Midi are especially mordant from the top. It is also wilder than Le Salève, so keep an eye out for orchids, chamois, and if you’re really lucky, a lynx.
Start from the Lac de Machilly parking (30 minutes by car) or the Machilly station (45 minutes by train via Annemasse) and head towards Chemin du Sauget. Turn right on Route du Seujet and you’ll find yourself at the signposted start of the five hour — 17 km loop of Les Voirons.
4. Le Môle
Le Môle sits further back from the city than its neighbours, but at 1,863 metres (the tallest mountain on this list) it is no molehill. In fact, it has one of the most recognisable silhouettes in the region: a near-perfect pyramid. It too was mentioned by Shelley in Frankenstein as she set her tempestuous scene:
“…[a] storm enlightened Jura with faint flashes; and another darkened and sometimes disclosed the Môle, a peaked mountain to the east of the lake”.
For an easy, sunny four hour — 9 km hike, drive 40 minutes to Saint-Jean-de-Tholome, park at Chez Beroud, and head towards the summit.
5. Petit Salève Loop
The Petit Salève is the head before the main body of the Salève. Park at the Château d’Etrembières (20 minute drive from the centre — can also take the 17 tram and walk). Head towards the forest. Walk for 2 hours. You will reach the Camp des Allobroges near the summit. The Allobroges were the Celtic tribe that founded Geneva, they may even have helped Hannibal cross the Alps. The remnants of their hillfort (or oppidum) — placed there as a symbol of control — are probably the coolest thing about the hike. The 6km loop should take you about four hours. On the way up you’ll have great views of Geneva and the Jura, and on the way back of Mont Blanc and the Môle.
6. Chemin de La Dôle
This hike is the only one on this list that is wholly in Switzerland, funnily enough. La Dôle is known for the iconic weather dome that you can easily spot from Le Jardin Anglais (it should be called La Dôme). The views from the summits of the other hikes on this list, as wonderful as they are, do cross-over a fair amount: you can spot Le Môle from Les Voirons and vice versa; they all have great views of Geneva and the Massif du Mont Blanc.
La Dôle offers something different, you get a better sense of l’arc lémanique, and more expansive views of the alps (especially the Bernese and Chablais Alps). It is the furthest out from Geneva, at an hour by train or 45 minutes by car, but it’s worth it. Le Chemin de La Dôle (SuisseMobile route 116) is a long but easy hike. You will walk 15km in 5h. You should start in La Givrine, loop the dome, and end in St Cergue, though you can keep going to Nyon and in doing so complete the last stage of the Jura Crest Trail (SuisseMobile route 5).
7. Le Reculet + Crêt de la Neige
This is the hardest hike on this list, if you’re up to it you’ll reach the highest point in the Jura mountains. Le Reculet and Crêt de la Neige don’t jut out much from the worn down range (it is very old after all — Jurassic even), but you can spot them from around the city. Next time you find yourself on one of the stops of the 12 tram in Rive Gauche, look up and you’ll realise that they are often framed by Geneva’s low-rise buildings.
It will take you 40 minutes by car to get to the trailhead (Tiocan, Thoiry), or 1h40 minutes by public transport (50 minutes to Thoiry — take the 18 tram and the 68 bus — and 50 minutes walk).
Be prepared for a 13.5 km, 7 hour hike — and a view that encompasses every other peak on this list, insane!
